In a recent article by Sam Dhatt, M.S., M.B.A, the latest developments and discoveries in skin care ingredients are highlighted and explained. Some of these ingredients are tried-and-true favorites of the aesthetic community, while others are brand new and hot on the lips of those in the know.
Dhatt begins (and rightly so) with some of the essentials of skin care, all chalked up to #1. His tried-and-tue favorites are: hyalauronic acid, vitamin C, and alpha hydroxy acids. Each of these ingredients run the gamut of skin care products and each are essential in anti-aging, cell turnover, and even acne treatment.
Next up, he shines the light on zinc, an easily forgotten yet highly important mineral- especially when it comes to sun protection. Many people seem to forget that sun damage is wounded skin, and wounded skin is aging skin. Protecting your skin from the sun is of utmost importance and zinc is the knight in shining armor of sun protection. Recently, huge developments have been made regarding the application of zinc. Gone are the days of old when zinc meant a big white streak across your nose. Now, with new micronized formulations, zinc can be formulated into a lotion that is completely clear on the skin.
Photosomes are next on Dhatt’s list. Photosomes are plankton extracts which, when exposed to extreme UV rays actually use the energy from said sunight (or, UV rays) to repair existing ultraviolet damage. They can be found in sun care products from sunscreens to moisturizers. In essence, they almost negate being in the sun in the first place!
As Dhatt himself says, no top-10 list would be complete without an antioxidants category. His antioxidants of choice are vitamins A and E, green tea, and vitamin C. Again, each of these ingredients plays a crucial role in the anti-aging process. But remember: apply your vitamin C in the AM and your vitamin A in the PM.
Following antioxidants on Dhatt’s list is an ingredient that may sound a bit foreign to some. Alpha lipoic acid (ALA) has been touted as the “universal antioxidant” because it fights free-radicals on the outside and inside of the cell membrane, as well as the inside of the cell itself. Further, once it crosses the cell membrane, it is broken down into an even more powerful free-radical neutralizer: dihydrolipoic acid (DHA). However, it’s next super power is one we hold near and dear to our hearts. Have you ever forgotten to screw the cap all the way back on your vitamin C, E, or co-Q 10? ALA has the power to actually regenerate these formulas once they have become oxidized (used). Talk about a team player!
Next is another ingredient that you may or may not have heard of. Idebenone has been called the “king of the next generation of antioxidants” due to its ability to both repair and protect the skin from sun damage. If you aren’t yet familiar with idebenone, you may know its close relative, coenzyme Q10, a powerful antioxidant that has long been used in skin care. But look for your favorite products to begin replacing co-Q10 with idebenone, for idebenone has better penetrative qualities, bringing more oxygen into your cells which generates healthy cell renewal and protects fat molecules from becoming oxidized or infused with free-radicals. Think of idebenone as a cellular bodyguard.
Dhatt’s next two picks are not nearly as scientific as the former. Olive trees have been researched for centuries, from the oil to the fruit and now more than ever: the leaf. Natural olive leaf extract has been shown to protect the lipids in cell walls from oxidation. Another study showed a dramatic increase in skin elasticity- 63% on the forehead and 81% on the cheek. Look for this ingredient to become a household name! Dhatt’s other pick from the natural world is emblica, an antioxidant isolated from phyullanthus emblica, an edible fruit that is a key treatment plant is Ayurvedic medicine. In addition to being a great antioxidant, emblica is also an extremely efficient- and safe- lightening agent. Due to emblica’s vast arsenal of benefits, many skin care lines are using it to replace the popular skin-bleaching hydroquinone.
Rounding out Dhatt’s list of favorites is one of our personal favorites, too. Dhatt says, “peptides have brought anti-aging to a new level of care in both the skin care room and in home care.” Collagen, a close relative of peptides, cannot penetrate the epidermis due to its large molecular size. Fortunately, peptides have been reengineered from amino acid chains to penetrate the skin with ease. Within the peptide family, there are many varieties.
Palitoyl pentapeptide-3, more commonly known as Matrixyl is an incredibly impressive antioxidant that also carries the power to stimulate new collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the dermal layer of skin as no other topical ingredient has. It’s not an overnight cure, but have patience and you will reap the amazing benefits of Matrixyl over time.
Acetyl hexapeptide-3, also known as Argireline is a six-amino-acid chain that actually works similar to BOTOX because it keeps the signal protein (catecholamine) from connecting to the cell to trigger a muscle contraction– but without the paralysis that BOTOX causes. Hexapeptides are one of the most sought after ingredients today- look for it in an array of products from eye creams to moisturizers.
Lastly, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 has shown breakthroughs in improving microcirculation, increasing the oxygen supply to tissues and strengthening and protecting the integrity of the collagen and elastin in the skin. And like any good antioxidant, tetrapeptides minimize free-radical damage and reduce inflammation. All of this results in a reduction of puffiness and dark circles around the eyes and a noticeable reduction in wrinkles and fine lines. Look for peptides in at-home products as well as treatments in the spa or from your aesthetician for noticeably more youthful skin.
To learn more about any of these ingredients, or to set up a personal skin care consultation, call:
720.314.1965
or email:
refreshlaser@comcast.net
And stay tuned: we have very exciting news to announce within the next few days!!!!
