10 Things About Free Radicals

In the most recent issue of Dermascope Magazine, they explored and explained ten important facts about the ever elusive Free Radical…

According to Dermascope,

“In the course of every day life, ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species), commonly known as free radicals, are encountered in the environment and produced by the body. The birth and death of cells goes on continuously and is witnessed when injured skin is repaired by the elimination of the dead cells and replaced by new ones. Oxidation is a natural process that happens during normal cellular functions, however the downside is approximately two percent of cells will get damaged in the process and turn into free radicals capable of destroying healthy cells. As oxygen interacts with cells of any type, oxidation occurs. The example by which oxidation can be observed is when a cut apple begins to turn brown or rust appears on an object after exposure to the environment.

The term “FREE” describes damaged cells. These terrorist cells are missing a critical molecule that sends them on a destructive path to pair with another molecule. Free radicals play a significant role in diseases and accelerate the aging process.  When free radicals are on the attack, they do not just kill cells to acquire their missing molecule. If free radicals just simply destroyed a cell the body would regenerate another one, however the problem is, free radicals are capable of injuring the cell and damaging the DNA creating the starting point for disease and aging. These destructive compounds break down into short-lived hydroxyl radicals reacting negatively with the body’s essential proteins and DNA. When a cell’s DNA changes, the cell becomes mutated which in turn grows abnormally and produces abnormally- and quickly. Free radicals chip away at cell walls, molecule by molecule, making holes followed by leakage and the loss of their chemical balances. Here are 10 important things you should know about free radicals:

1. Free radicals and external toxins surround us everyday. Cigarette smoke and pollution are a significant source of free radicals in our own environment. Our food and water harbor free radicals in the form of pesticides and other contaminants. Even breathing the air from inversions caused by smog is destructive to skin and hazardous to health. Many cities now post warnings to minimize the impact of free radical damage that have become a part of our daily lives. Skin care should juxtapose these environmental assaults with the use of powerful antioxidant professional formulations.

2. The way to slow the process of reactive oxygen species (ROS), skin aging is as simple as reducing the non-essential free radical activity by avoiding over exposure to the environment, applying a full spectrum SPF, using topical antioxidants professional only skin care, taking supplements and eating healthy foods with vitamins and minerals.

3. Alcohol in excessive amounts triggers substantial free radical production. Clinical evidence can be observed on the skin with discoloration, texture changes, capillary damage, edema, wrinkles, sagging, dark circles, poor healing, and slow response to skin treatments.

4. Free radicals are brokers for cell death. Out of control free radicals are dangerous because they trigger damaging chain reactions. There are numerous types of free radicals that can be formed within the body. The most common are the super oxide radical, hydroxyl radical, singlet oxygen radical, and hydrogen peroxide radical. One free radical can set off a domino effect causing incalculable cellular destruction. The process begins when a free radical oxidizes a fatty acid, changing that fatty acid into a free radical, which in turn then damages another fatty acid in rapid succession and so on and so on. This free radical damage is clinically evident on skin and attributed to the photoaging superimposed on the innate aging process. It is estimated that each skin kernaocyte has 5,000 hits of free radicals a day. As a result, the skin can age faster than any body organ can.

5. The manufacturing of collagen, lipids, or pigment in the skin produces free radicals. These free radicals can create damage to the components of the skin as they steal and electron from anotherr component to make themselves complete and stable, as in the case of wound healing and immune defense.

6. The sun and its proton energy is our largest free radical source causing oxidative stress benchmarked by the evidence of erythema and darkening of the skin in the form of a ‘tan’ or pigmentation. Oxidation damage is the basis of cumulative sunlight and can lead to skin cancer due to the mutant DNA damaged cells. Cigarette smoke, first or second hand, has active free radical generator that attack cells and impede skin recovery from sun damage, aging, acne, surgery, an compromise overall health that can lead to death.

7. Most chemical processes in the skin emit free radicals. In the body, the processing of food, the production of energy, and using energy creates free radicals. Breathing and using our muscles to perform functions also creates free radicals. Mitochondria are organelles in cells which are the central components generating the majority of energy from nutrients. Every cell in the body contains hundreds of mitochondria. Evidence indicates the mitochondria plays a significant role in aging and is the first to receive free radical attack in the cell.

8. Infections, such as acne for example, destroy components that must be repaired or reproduced which generates chemical processes that cause damage. When acne is involved it becomes another creator of free radicals because of inflammation. In the case of severe to moderate acne, this condition assumes the second position ahead of unprotected skin to sun exposure. Acne sufferers experience rapid aging to the skin because of the free radical attack. This acne fact substantiates the importance of antioxidant usage.

9. When free radicals steal an electron from one of the proteins contained in a strand of collagen, it causes a change in the chemical structure of the collagen causing a break in the collagen strand. Once a bundle of collagen has multiple points of damage the strand becomes dysfunctional and loses its elastic quality resulting in sagging skin due to lack of support.

10. Free radical damage and aging skin can be controlled and managed with the use of antioxidant skin care. The term antioxidant means ‘against oxidation.’ Antioxidants are unique because they donate an electron to a free radical and work to stop free radical chain reaction and prevent ROS damage after it has started. For example, vitamin C stops the sequence before it switches on and captures the free radical to neutralize it. Vitamin E is an excellent lipid soluble antioxidant to shield against pollution because of its capability to break the free radical chain reaction. Retinol is a strong source of antioxidant defense for the skin attaching retinoic receptors at the cell membrane and diffusing lipofuscin toxins. Chocolate contains more than 25,000 powerful antioxidants (twice that of red wine and three times more than green tea) and it also contains magnesium, zinc, and vitamin E. Flavonoids and polyphenols are part of a free radical protection protocol. Plant stem cell extracts guard skin from oxidative stress and helps reverse the damage brought on by free radical assault. In professional skin care one proven source of antioxidant therapy to reverse skin damage is alpha hydroxys that include glycolic and lactic acid peels together with formulations for home care, just to name a few.

In 1954, the free radical theory of aging was discovered by antioxidant pioneer, Denham Harmon Ph. D., who uncovered the fact that most aging changes are due to molecular damage brought on by reactive oxygen and antioxidant imbalance. Accumulation of oxidized proteins in the cells is a result of a disparity between their rate of generation and the tempo by which they are removed by specific proteolytic enzymes. A free radical attack on a cell membrane usually damages a cell to the point it must be removed by the immune system. Skin is the largest immune organe and the first to be attacked by free radicals. Under normal conditions the antioxidant system of our cellular defense can easily handle most free radicals produced. However, during the time of increased oxygen flux brought on by environmental exposure, smoking, pollution, stress,, foods, chemicals, ingredients, and lifestyle imbalances, this system is on overload, exceeding indigenous control, and removal of these toxins ultimately result in lipid peroxidation and damage. This cellular rancidity ultimately leads to premature aging and disease.

Free radicals are a natural state of our being and the good news is they have a short life. By preventing or controlling the imbalance of free radical assault and lipid peroxidation of the cells, we can better manage acne, aging, and other adverse skin conditions in addition to enjoying a healthier and longer life.

Top Skin Care Ingredients of 2010

In a recent article by Sam Dhatt, M.S., M.B.A, the latest developments and discoveries in skin care ingredients are highlighted and explained. Some of these ingredients are tried-and-true favorites of the aesthetic community, while others are brand new and hot on the lips of those in the know.

Dhatt begins (and rightly so) with some of the essentials of skin care, all chalked up to #1. His tried-and-tue favorites are: hyalauronic acid, vitamin C, and alpha hydroxy acids. Each of these ingredients run the gamut of skin care products and each are essential in anti-aging, cell turnover, and even acne treatment.

Next up, he shines the light on zinc, an easily forgotten yet highly important mineral- especially when it comes to sun protection. Many people seem to forget that sun damage is wounded skin, and wounded skin is aging skin. Protecting your skin from the sun is of utmost importance and zinc is the knight in shining armor of sun protection. Recently, huge developments have been made regarding the application of zinc. Gone are the days of old when zinc meant a big white streak across your nose. Now, with new micronized formulations, zinc can be formulated into a lotion that is completely clear on the skin.

Photosomes are next on Dhatt’s list. Photosomes are plankton extracts which, when exposed to extreme UV rays actually use the energy from said sunight (or, UV rays) to repair existing ultraviolet damage. They can be found in sun care products from sunscreens to moisturizers. In essence, they almost negate being in the sun in the first place!

As Dhatt himself says, no top-10 list would be complete without an antioxidants category. His antioxidants of choice are vitamins A and E, green tea, and vitamin C. Again, each of these ingredients plays a crucial role in the anti-aging process. But remember: apply your vitamin C in the AM and your vitamin A in the PM.

Following antioxidants on Dhatt’s list is an ingredient that may sound a bit foreign to some. Alpha lipoic acid (ALA) has been touted as the “universal antioxidant” because it fights free-radicals on the outside and inside of the cell membrane, as well as the inside of the cell itself. Further, once it crosses the cell membrane, it is broken down into an even more powerful free-radical neutralizer: dihydrolipoic acid (DHA). However, it’s next super power is one we hold near and dear to our hearts. Have you ever forgotten to screw the cap all the way back on your vitamin C, E, or co-Q 10? ALA has the power to actually regenerate these formulas once they have become oxidized (used). Talk about a team player!

Next is another ingredient that you may or may not have heard of. Idebenone has been called the “king of the next generation of antioxidants” due to its ability to both repair and protect the skin from sun damage. If you aren’t yet familiar with idebenone, you may know its close relative, coenzyme Q10, a powerful antioxidant that has long been used in skin care. But look for your favorite products to begin replacing co-Q10 with idebenone, for idebenone has better penetrative qualities, bringing more oxygen into your cells which generates healthy cell renewal and protects fat molecules from becoming oxidized or infused with free-radicals. Think of idebenone as a cellular bodyguard.

Dhatt’s next two picks are not nearly as scientific as the former. Olive trees have been researched for centuries, from the oil to the fruit and now more than ever: the leaf. Natural olive leaf extract has been shown to protect the lipids in cell walls from oxidation. Another study showed a dramatic increase in skin elasticity- 63% on the forehead and 81% on the cheek. Look for this ingredient to become a household name! Dhatt’s other pick from the natural world is emblica, an antioxidant isolated from phyullanthus emblica, an edible fruit that is a key treatment plant is Ayurvedic medicine. In addition to being a great antioxidant, emblica is also an extremely efficient- and safe- lightening agent. Due to emblica’s vast arsenal of benefits, many skin care lines are using it to replace the popular skin-bleaching hydroquinone.

Rounding out Dhatt’s list of favorites is one of our personal favorites, too.  Dhatt says, “peptides have brought anti-aging to a new level of care in both the skin care room and in home care.” Collagen, a close relative of peptides, cannot penetrate the epidermis due to its large molecular size. Fortunately, peptides have been reengineered from amino acid chains to penetrate the skin with ease. Within the peptide family, there are many varieties.

Palitoyl pentapeptide-3, more commonly known as Matrixyl is an incredibly impressive antioxidant that also carries the power to stimulate new collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the dermal layer of skin as no other topical ingredient has. It’s not an overnight cure, but have patience and you will reap the amazing benefits of Matrixyl over time.

Acetyl hexapeptide-3, also known as Argireline is a six-amino-acid chain that actually works similar to BOTOX because it keeps the signal protein (catecholamine) from connecting to the cell to trigger a muscle contraction– but without the paralysis that BOTOX causes. Hexapeptides are one of the most sought after ingredients today- look for it in an array of products from eye creams to moisturizers.

Lastly, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 has shown breakthroughs in improving microcirculation, increasing the oxygen supply to tissues and strengthening and protecting the integrity of the collagen and elastin in the skin. And like any good antioxidant, tetrapeptides minimize free-radical damage and reduce inflammation. All of this results in a reduction of puffiness and dark circles around the eyes and a noticeable reduction in wrinkles and fine lines. Look for peptides in at-home products as well as treatments in the spa or from your aesthetician for noticeably more youthful skin.

 

To learn more about any of these ingredients, or to set up a personal skin care consultation, call:

720.314.1965

or email:

refreshlaser@comcast.net

And stay tuned: we have very exciting news to announce within the next few days!!!!

 

Anti-Aging Nutrition

Feeling great, along with beautiful, glowing skin can be directly linked to what you eat. Doctors and nutritional experts have long supported the connection between health, skin, and diet. What you should eat and in what amounts are the questions many of our clients are asking us.

According to recent medical research, it is most important to eat a variety of fruits and vegetables. The deeper the color of the fruit or vegetable, the more “super” the food, i.e: high in anti-oxidants, nutrients, and vitamins. Carotenoids, or naturally occurring pigments, tell you that a food is naturally filled with anti-oxidants and rich with wonderful benefits for your body, brain, and skin.

Much has been reported on the value and importance of incorporating anti-oxidants into your diet and skin care regimen, especially in the fight against free radicals. Free radicals can cause inflammation, cell damage, and disease, which is why a diet rich in anti-oxidants is of utmost importance.

Vitamin C

citrus fruits

red sweet peppers

plantains

broccoli

kale

potatoes

Vitamin A

fish oil

eggs

pumpkin

mozzarella cheese

Vitamin E

nuts

avocados

ginger

soybeans

asparagus

Selenium

fish

red meat

chicken

grains

eggs

garlic

So, yes! It is possible to improve your skin through a diet high in anti-oxidants. However, that is not enough! Good skin care with products that contain active ingredients and highly absorbable anti-oxidants is vital to fighting  the signs of aging skin.

Anti-Oxidants: Why You Need Them

Many clients ask me, “What is the big deal about anti-oxidants? Why do I need them? What do the do for my skin?” Here is the low down on anti-oxidants and why they are so very important to maintaining healthy youthful smooth skin.They work to combat the ‘free radical cells’ that damage your skin. In addition, they promote stimulation of new collagen growth.

WHAT ARE FREE RADICALS?

Free radicals are created when oxygen produces by-products during normal cellular metabolism. More accurately, this reactive oxygen ‘steals’ electrons from proteins, DNA and cell membranes, damaging tissue. If left unchecked, free radicals may cause heart damage, cancer, cataracts, and a weak immune system. Free radicals may be involved with aging of tissue; and coupled with sun damage, could promote skin cancers.

Free radicals are produced by normal human metabolism, and they can be increased by smoking, drinking alcohol, exposure to heavy metals, and radiation. Anti-oxidants counteract this process by binding to the free radicals, transforming them into non-damaging compounds, or repairing cellular damage. It would seem logical, then, to include antioxidants in your daily skin care regime.

To the rescue!

Antioxidants are the antidote to free radicals. They can be taken orally or applied directly to the skin. We recommend both a nutritional supplement high in anti-oxidants and daily application of an anti-oxidant serum or cream that is easily absorbed in the skin. Most Vitamin C serums and creams are generally not stable alone and are not as effective as an anti-oxidant topical that is a combination of Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Vitamin K.

What are antioxidants?

In order for antioxidants to have any benefit they have to be in sufficient quantities in the tissue. Common anti-oxidants that are taken orally, or eaten, are Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Selenium and the carotenoids, (fruits and vegetables having the most deeply or brightly-colored fruits and vegetables, i.e.: spinach, carrots, red bell peppers, tomatoes). Eating a diet high in anti-oxidants is not enough for good skin care,preventing photo-damage, and stimulating collagen growth.

What are topical antioxidants?

Topical antioxidants may reduce UVA damage. UVA is the wavelength that mostly produces visible signs of sun damage and has some carcinogenic effect. Topical antioxidants that have been studied in creams or ointments are Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Glutathione, Lipoic Acid, Coenzyme Q10, Soy- isoflavanone, and Vitamin K. It has been shown that combining some of these have additional benefit.

Which are the antioxidants?

Antioxidants can be divided into those that are fat soluble and those that are water soluble.

Fat soluble:

• Vitamin E, Co-enzyme Q10 and Lipoic acid

Water soluble:

• Glutathione and Vitamin C

Vitamin E:

• The antioxidant effect can be more effective if combined with other antioxidants i.e.: Co-enzyme Q10 and Vitamin C
• Is found in fresh vegetables, oils, seeds, nuts, cumin, and soy. Animal studies have shown that Vitamin E protects against UVB damage, although this effect has not been proved in humans. (UVB is much more carcinogenic than UVA, and causes sunburns).
• Commonly used to help wound healing. However, studies in human burns did not show Vitamin E helping and about a 1/5 of patients reacted to vitamin E with a contact dermatitis).
• Topical Vitamin E is commonly used by pregnant women in the belief that it prevents stretch marks. There is no evidence for this, and sometimes an acute allergic dermatitis is produced causing an inflamed uncomfortable rash.

Co-enzyme Q10 (also known as Ubiquinone)

• Found in fish and shell fish
• It penetrates well into skin, and is claimed to reduce the breakdown of collagen after exposure to UVA light
• It may reduce the depth of wrinkles

Lipoic Acid

• This is well absorbed into the skin, and converted quickly into dihydrolipoic acid in the cells. It has an anti-inflammatory effect. A three per cent application of Lipoid Acid has been shown to reduce redness in the skin after UVB exposure.

Glutathione

• This antioxidant is produced by amino acids, eysteine, glycine and glutamic acid

Vitamin C

• Also known as Ascorbic Acid
• Oral Vitamin C improves wound healing and may enhance the immune system
• The lack of Vitamin C produces scurvy, which produces fragile skin and bleeding gums

Topical Vitamin C

• Reduces sun damage, fine wrinkles, and may lighten dark skin pigmentation
• It is widely used topically and believed to assist in the stimulation of collagen

Green Tea (tea polyphenols)

When used topically as a cream:

• Has shown to reduce the carcinogenic effect of certain chemicals and ultraviolet rays on the skin of animals. We are still awaiting good evidence for benefit in humans
• Produces anti-inflammatory effects
• Reduces the redness caused by UV light

DHEA (Dehydroepiandrosterone)

• Occurs naturally in our bodies
• When taken orally, DHEA is a powerful antioxidant that may have an anti-aging effect and help thicken skin and reduce pigmentation
• It is not know if there are any long-term negative effects from oral injection

Soy-isoflavones

• When used topically it may increase collagen and decrease redness and damage from ultraviolet rays

It is not too soon to start using anti-oxidants! Many clients ask me, do I need to worry about using anti-oxidants if I am still in my 20′s, or my 30′s? Yes, you need to start using them! Early intervention in preventing the effects of aging, and photo-damage is key to maintaining youthful healthy skin as we age.